Pierpaolo Piccioli arrives at Balenciaga… but at what price?
A handover that intrigues as much as it questions. Balenciaga confirms the arrival of Pierpaolo Piccioli as Artistic Director. A prestigious name, an assertive vision, but above all a gamble at a time when Kering is seeking to halt a -14% fall in sales.
Pierpaolo Piccioli: an unexpected profile?
After leaving Valentino in the spring of 2024, where he spent 25 years (including 16 as artistic director), Piccioli takes over the reins of a cult French house, deeply marked by the imprint of Demna, who left to join Gucci. This game of musical chairs is not insignificant: it takes place against a backdrop of strategic restructuring at Kering, which also acquired a stake in Valentino last year.
Piccioli may be hailed as a master of Haute Couture, but his dreamlike, romantic universe stands in stark contrast to the provocative, brutal aesthetic cultivated by Balenciaga in recent years. The question remains: how will he merge his DNA with that of the highly codified Parisian House?
Balenciaga, a heritage to be handled with finesse
In a poignant letter, the designer evokes his long-standing bond with Cristóbal Balenciaga, revealing that his first Instagram post was… a wedding dress signed by the founder. More than a detail, it’s a strong signal of his intention to reconnect with the brand’s original DNA: structured elegance, formal innovation and powerful storytelling.
“Balenciaga is what it is thanks to Cristóbal, Nicolas, Alex, Demna,” he writes. A statement that evokes a desire to honor history while injecting a breath of fresh air.
The October collection: a turning point
In autumn 2025, the public will discover his first collection for Balenciaga. In other words, the pressure is on. Kering is counting on him to restore the brand’s desirability in the face of fierce competition and a changing market.
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