Francesco Risso leaves Marni… but to go where?

Francesco Risso’s surprise departure from Marni has left the fashion world in a state of uncertainty. What lies behind this decision?

A decade of free, immersive creativity

When Francesco Risso took over the reins of Marni in 2016, his mission was to breathe new life into a house with an already assertive style. A graduate of Polimoda and Central Saint Martins, he was no stranger: his career at Prada had already given him a strong legitimacy in the spheres of luxury. But it was in Milan that he really made his mark.

For almost ten years, Risso imposed a graphic, theatrical and willingly offbeat vision, propelling the women’s collections towards a new narrative, while expanding the men’s line. Far from traditional catwalks, he introduced immersive fashion shows, which have become his trademark – to the point of making Marni a closely scrutinized house at fashion weeks.

A quiet but significant exit

On June 18, 2025, Marni, owned by the OTB Group headed by Renzo Rosso, made the departure official. No successor has yet been announced. This announcement is part of a wider context of creative recomposition within the group, which recently appointed Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela and Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander.

Risso, for his part, is keeping quiet about his future projects. But in the world of designers, inactivity is rare. Some are already betting on a new brand or a highly symbolic collaboration. All bets are off.

What will become of Marni without Risso?

In 2024, Marni celebrated its 30th anniversary with a beauty licensing agreement signed with Coty, proof that the house is aiming for international influence. Its next artistic director will have to walk a fine line between commercial continuity and stylistic innovation.

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