Why Prada is shaking up fashion with its choices ahead of PFW 2025

One detail upset insiders: Prada officially acknowledged using traditional Indian Kolhapuri sandals in its Spring-Summer 2026 Men’s collection. Announced at the end of September 2025, it revived debates on cultural appropriation. But that’s not all: in September 2024, the Italian fashion house had already imposed a retro-futuristic Spring-Summer 2025 collection, between assertive sustainability and radical minimalism. Two contradictory signals based on the same strategy: combining innovation, tradition and responsibility.

A Milan fashion show between futurism and sobriety

Presented on September 19, 2024, Prada’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection seduced with its clear lines. Work on minimalist volumes and sixties inspirations confirmed the house’s ability to reinvent classics. Accessories, from butterfly sunglasses to peaked bobs, displayed an assertive retro-futuristic aesthetic. Recycled materials and innovative textiles lent credibility to the brand’s ecological ambitions.

In Milan, sober elegance was coupled with a discourse on sustainability, already underway with the Re-Nylon initiative. Prada is not content with a trendy effect: the Italian fashion house uses regenerated fabrics made from plastic waste, with the aim of transforming a symbol of luxury into a lever for responsibility.

The Kolhapuri controversy: appropriation or homage?

In September 2025, the announcement of the presence of Kolhapuri chappals in the Men’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection sparked a wave of criticism. These sandals, emblematic of Indian craftsmanship, are perceived as a strong cultural heritage. Borrowing by a Western luxury house immediately raises the question of the balance between inspiration and exploitation.

Prada was quick to respond, underlining its respect for craftsmanship and its desire to pay tribute through international recognition. While no figures were given for collaborations with Indian craftsmen, the stated aim is cultural dialogue and global recognition.

What the experts say

The controversy comes at a time when Prada is being hailed for its sustainable efforts. Its pioneering role in introducing biodegradable materials makes its strategy particularly scrutinized. Inconsistency for some, audacity for others. Fashion critics are asking: how far can responsible luxury allow itself to borrow from culture without clear explanations?

Faced with these questions, various voices in the sector remind us that transparency and fair partnerships will be the key to future success. Prada’s positioning between recycling and appropriation makes the analysis complex.
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Between futurism and sixties inspiration, this collection poses a formidable experimental ground” – Source Elle.fr, Milan fashion show, 2024

In contrast, the reception of the Spring-Summer 2025 collection demonstrates how Prada’s consistent style and enduring vision can generate unanimous support.

Sustainability and apparent contradictions

Prada’s gamble is based on a strong narrative: combining history and modernity, luxury and ecology. The Re-Nylon initiative, launched in 2019, remains emblematic. It continues in 2025 with regenerated fabrics made from fishing nets and industrial waste. These innovations are not cosmetic but structural: they now concern the entire production chain.

The contrast with the Kolhapuri controversy, however, illustrates a central tension: how to integrate elements of local cultures into a global luxury chain? Prada’s official discourse focuses on homage and recognition, but does not specify any financial or contractual aspects with the artisans concerned.
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Prada continues to lead the fashion world with a Spring/Summer collection that balances bold innovation and sustainability” – WeddingGMagazine, 2024

This paradox does not alter Prada’s place among the world leaders in sustainable luxury, but it does call into question its image management and communications strategy.

Prada and the perception of luxury in 2025

In a sector subject to the demands of social networks and instant criticism, Prada has to deal with contradictory expectations. Luxury customers want exclusivity, timelessness and social commitment. Prada responds by developing collections rich in influences, but runs the risk of offending by a lack of contextualization.

In Paris, where Prada enjoys a particularly high profile, these issues take on added resonance. The French capital is both a judge of good taste and a laboratory of trends. The impact of this controversy resonates even in discussions about Paris Fashion Week and the role of international fashion houses.

Prada’s coherence is based on a simple but ambitious idea: to bring together the strength of international textile heritage and the ecological imperative. A demanding program that calls for greater clarity of approach.

The next Fashion Weeks, scheduled for 2025 and 2026, will be a litmus test of its ability to move beyond this debate. It will be crucial to observe whether the house confirms artisanal partnerships and how it continues to integrate sustainability into its luxury collections.

Perspectives and challenges

As the fashion calendar accelerates, luxury brands are forced to adapt to increased transparency. Prada, thanks to its status and aura, has a fertile ground to clarify its intentions. If the house confirms its collaborative commitments, the Kolhapuri controversy could be transformed into an opportunity for credibility.

The Italian fashion house therefore faces a strategic challenge: to continue to seduce with its aesthetic and ecological innovations, while proving that its cultural approach is respectful and inclusive. This dual requirement could consolidate Prada as a model, if pursued consistently and rigorously.

As with other companies that have had to respond to similar controversies, the outcome will depend on the solidity of the partnerships established and the transparency of the choices made.

Against this backdrop, the luxury fashion industry keeps a close eye on every position Prada takes. The future of its collections, as much as its relationship with local cultures, has become a marker of credibility. As one Parisian critic once explained, elegance today is no longer distinguished by style alone, but by the ethics that accompany it.