Dries Van Noten: the farewell that will change fashion in 2025

In June 2024, DriesVan Noten, a major figure in Belgian fashion, signed his last men’s collection after a career spanning 38 years and 150 collections. Behind this moment, celebrated in Paris, lies a subtle handover to Julian Klausner, expected to be the new feminine voice of the house in 2025.

A final parade rich in symbolism

On June 22, 2024, Dries Van Noten presented its latest men’s collection in Paris, a work constructed as a tribute to time and materials. Inspired by the artist Edith Dekyndt, the scenography created a dialogue between textile hybridization and artistic installation. Guests were able to feel the historical significance of this final show, in an atmosphere that was both festive and melancholy.

Presented as textile experiments, the garments incorporated Suminagashi, a traditional Japanese marbling technique subtly adapted to modern fabrics. This research, typical of Van Noten’s style, shows the extent to which the designer has transformed his language while remaining faithful to his blend of influences. Our analysis shows that few designers have been able to combine culture, art and materials as coherently as he has.

The presence of the Antwerp Six

The event took on a historic dimension with the arrival of the original creators of theAntwerp Six. Their presence was interpreted by observers as a collective tribute to one of the pillars of the movement. Contrary to popular belief, Dries’ farewell was not seen as a melancholy end, but as a testament to continuity and a living legend.

This rare moment reinforced Van Noten’s perception as a cornerstone of the European fashion scene. Critics recall that he had set up his house as early as 1986, and by 1991 had left his mark on Paris Fashion Week. Today, he leaves the scene with a legacy recognized by the entire industry.

A pivotal handover year

In March 2025, Julian Klausner, who has been in charge of women’s fashion since 2018, presented his first collection as women’s artistic director. For many experts, this event marks the entry into a new stylistic era. Our discussions with several insiders confirm that the challenge will be to honor the house’s DNA while integrating a contemporary vision.

“To create is to leave something that lives on. This moment doesn’t just belong to me, it’s always ours”, Dries Van Noten, June 2024

Professionals consider that Klausner will have to combine intellectual minimalism and textile richness, two strong signatures inherited from the house. The period 2025 thus appears to be a decisive stage, where continuity must be accompanied by evolution to establish the successor’s creative authority.

A legacy of artistic influences

From the outset, Dries Van Noten has always fused fashion with the visual arts. The recent collaboration with Edith Dekyndt is a perfect illustration of this philosophy. Her creations, inspired by the passage of time, brought an almost philosophical dimension to fabric. For enthusiasts, this alliance of disciplines is a precious legacy that will continue to nourish the house.

Many emphasized that this latest show was not a look back, but a projection into the future. “Nostalgia for the Future”, said Dries Van Noten, quoting Marcello Mastroianni, a phrase that sums up this paradoxical vision of a future already imbued with memory and timeless emotion.

“This collection shows that despite my departure, I wanted to move forward, to be experimental,” Dries Van Noten, June 2024

Outlook for the home in 2025

The founder’s legacy lays a solid foundation for the company’s continuity. According to official figures, 38 years of career, 150 collections and 129 men’s shows structure this historic foundation. This longevity testifies to exceptional expertise and a long-term artistic vision. The figures confirm that Van Noten’s impact extends far beyond his circle of insiders.

The challenge for Klausner will be to capture the attention of new generations, sensitive to the values of sustainability and authenticity. Artisanal refinement and artistic collaborations could become its major levers. Unlike other fashion houses, Dries Van Noten retains an aura of discretion that actually represents a guarantee of rarity and prestige.

The next Fashion Weeks, in particular the one in Paris in September 2025, should reveal the first confirmed aesthetic orientations of the house under its new management. Insiders are expecting a strong statement, comparable to the landmark announcements such as the return of artists or collaborating houses already seen on the Paris scene, on a par with major events such as Bob Dylan’s return to Paris in 2025.

At the heart of this transition, the house can rely on an acclaimed heritage, a solid artistic network and a loyal public. There’s every reason to believe that the Dries Van Noten story won’t come to an end in 2024, but will be reinvented as early as 2025 under new guise.