Vaquera shakes up Paris Fashion Week SS26

Our March 2025 investigation reveals how New York collective Vaquera is redefining its identity in Paris. The Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show wasn’t just a presentation: it was the formalization of their creative anchorage in the French capital. With its move announced for June, the brand marks a turning point that intrigues critics and luxury insiders alike.

The collection that’s shaking up Paris

At Paris Fashion Week in March 2025, Vaquera presented its Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection, inspired by the 1920s and 1980s, but reinterpreted through the prism of “future nostalgia”. An analysis of the pieces reveals structured silhouettes, bold materials and a subtle play on the contrast between sophistication and playfulness.

Critics pointed to the integration of an Andy Warhol Marilyn Monroe print, validated by the foundation, as a symbol of a blend of American pop culture and Parisian rigor. This confirms Vaquera’s ambition to combine experimentation and legitimacy on the international scene.

A strategic gateway to Paris

Behind the glitter of the catwalk lies a clear strategic move: Vaquera is leaving New York for good to set up its studio in the heart of Paris in June 2025. This choice is not insignificant. The city represents both a more demanding market and global recognition in fashion.

According to our privileged sources, this decision reflects a desire to align themselves with the standards of the big houses, while retaining their native iconoclasm. Unlike their first street shows in New York, their presence on the Parisian calendar validates a new phase of maturity.

An aesthetic between subversion and elegance

Founders Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee started out in 2013 with the energy of fan fiction fashion, deliberately accessible and punk. Ten years on, the pieces presented in March demonstrate a mastery of cutting and a more accomplished dramaturgy.

The collection contrasts structured jackets with offbeat details, flowing dresses with deliberately outrageous accessories. Through this balance, they project a vision: to keep the playful soul of their beginnings while entering the circle of Parisian haute-couture.

This mutation has attracted the attention of retailers such as Dover Street Market, the brand’s long-standing partner, ready to reinforce the brand’s European visibility. The work on details – Warhol-print denim, inflated volumes, metallic textures – illustrates an assertive desire to write a new chapter.

“This new phase represents an exercise in control in an uncertain world,” says co-founder Patric DiCaprio.

Feedback from fashion experts

Industry professionals agree that Vaquera has made a difficult transition from underground collective to established reference without betraying its DNA. Several critics point to an energy comparable to the early days of some of today’s institutionalized creators.

Their contrasting approach – austerity versus eccentricity, past versus future – appeals to a wider audience. According to Bryn Taubensee, this revival appeals as much to old faithfuls as to a new Parisian clientele in search of authenticity.

“Vaquera is growing, but retaining its playful, subversive spirit; this collection is a nod to historical fans,” emphasizes co-founder Bryn Taubensee.

A sustainable future for Paris

By setting up shop in the French capital in June 2025, Vaquera is positioning itself as a key player on the European calendar. This strategic choice opens the door to new local collaborations, notably with Parisian designers and jewelry houses such as D’Heygere Jewelry.

The next Fashion Week will serve as a litmus test: their integration into the Parisian rhythm will determine their long-term legitimacy. Some observers are already betting on a significant breakthrough, given the support of international cultural players.

In an environment marked by a return to tailoring and heritage, Vaquera offers an alternative between innovation and references. Their implicit slogan is “impertinent yet mature”.

The brand thus confirms the trend of young labels choosing Paris as a platform for global credibility, while retaining the inventiveness born in New York. A rare equation, which explains the growing fascination of critics and the public alike.

Practical information

Address (studio from June 2025): Sentier-Montorgueil area, Paris 2nd (exact address confidential). Metro access: Sentier (line 3) or Réaumur-Sébastopol (lines 3 and 4). Calendar: public presentations exclusively during Paris Fashion Week. Official website: vaquera.fashion. Reservations and invitations on request from the press office.