Haute Couture SS2026: Schiaparelli creates an ultra-natural glow

At the Petit Palais, the “The Agony and The Ecstasy” show set the couture world abuzz. On the beauty front, however, everything was done in controlled silence: almost naked skin, bursting with light, ideal for copying this summer.

Taut silhouettes, weightless complexions

Before settling down at the Petit Palais, Daniel Roseberry made a stopover in Rome. Faced with the frescoes of the Sistine Chapel, he contemplates the almost frozen rigor of the walls and, above, the total freedom of the ceiling painted by Michelangelo. On the catwalk, this tension between control and release is reflected in the spectacular silhouettes. On the faces, on the other hand, the designer opts for calm: a luminous, almost religious complexion, as a gentle response to the excessiveness of the volumes.

In the golden light of the salons, Schiaparelli silhouettes displayed sculpted bustiers, ribbed corsets and suspended lace. The face, on the other hand, remains soft and gentle. No obvious contouring, no dramatic lips. The models simply seem to be relaxing, as if after a few days in the sun, with that calm freshness that makes you want to revisit your entire make-up routine.

Bare skin, controlled light

The key to the look lies in the texture of the complexion. The face retains a diffused, almost moist satin finish, as if after a successful skincare routine. The base is ultra-clean: very little substance, lots of light reflection, a radiance that seems to come from within. Exactly the “freedom” the designer speaks of, but applied to the skin.

First, we think skincare. Light layering: moisturizing lotion, aqueous serum, fine cream… or directly a healthy-glow product like Garancia’s [Diabolique Tomate] Crème d’Eau, which moisturizes, plumps and leaves a subtle rosy veil. The skin remains visible, the texture reads, and the face gains a discreet radiance. A few drops of self-tanner can be added to warm skin tone.

Then comes the unification. We choose a tinted skincare rather than a classic foundation, to smooth without camouflaging, with the idea of transparency, light and natural glow that makes the Schiaparelli look so charming.

On this base, almost nothing. A concealer is applied to the inner corner of the eye, around the sides of the nose, on two or three small shadows. The rest is done with cream textures: a touch of warm blush on the top of the cheekbone, a cream illuminator on the bridge of the nose and the top of the lip. The idea is not to illuminate the whole face, but to recreate the points of light that the sun naturally catches.

Relaxed gaze, soft mouth

The look remains deliberately uncluttered. On the models, the eyelid remains almost its natural color, sometimes simply warmed by a beige shadow. Lashes are curled, then a lengthening mascara is applied in very thin coats, especially at the roots. The goal: to open the eye without weighing it down.

Eyebrows, already a strong facial structure, need onlya transparent or lightly tinted gel to hold the line. No blocks of color, no sharp lines: the structure is guessed rather than imposed, in keeping with this season’s emphasis on playfulness rather than control.

On the mouth, it’s time for comfort. Natural pink or peach tinted balm, or simple, rich, slightly glossy balm. Volume looks natural, color evokes lips “back from vacation”. The color evokes rested, moisturized lips, almost “back from vacation”, with no classic lipstick effect. Here, too, freedom prevails: the lips follow the movement of the silhouettes, but don’t try to steal the scene.

How to adopt the Schiaparelli glow this summer

To transpose this manifesto of light all summer long, even away from the front rows, we can think of the routine in three stages: care, correction, light.

In the morning, we take the time toreally moisturize: lotion, serum, fluid cream, plus a few drops of self-tanner to tone the complexion. Then, replace opaque foundation with a tinted cream or very fine tinted serum, applied with the finger from the center of the face outwards.

We only correct what’s in the way: two touches of concealer, a micro-correction on a pimple, no more. Then we work on cream textures: high blush, discreet illuminator, balm on the mouth. At the end of the gesture, a moisturizing setting spray – a mist that sets while maintaining a morning dew effect – blends the layers together and avoids a surface make-up effect.

The result is a face that looks almost naked, but responds wonderfully to light, just as it does on the steps of the Petit Palais. In the end, Schiaparelli’s beauty message for Spring-Summer 2026 can be summed up in one sentence: let the dresses create the show, and give the face a simple halo of light, satiny, alive, almost naked. This summer, true luxury means showing off your skin… and letting it shine just enough.