What if chefs stopped serving eel? Relais & Châteaux for marine biodiversity

When a major player in the world of gastronomy takes a stand, the industry listens.
In June 2025, Relais & Châteaux is relaunching an unprecedented appeal: asking its 580 chefs to ban certain endangered marine species from their menus. Behind this decision? A vision: that of a cuisine in harmony with the living.

A global call to culinary awareness

As part of its “In Harmony with Life” program, supported byUNESCO, Relais & Châteaux is encouraging its establishments to take concrete action for marine biodiversity. Each chef is invited to remove at least one endangered species from a regionally-defined list.

In Europe, the five target species are :

• European eel,
• wild Atlantic salmon,
• cake,
• Mediterranean hake,
• Atlantic mackerel.

This choice is based on analyses by the NGO Ethic Ocean, a long-standing partner of the association.

The strength of the network: 580 chefs, one message

This movement didn’t come out of nowhere. Back in 2009, Relais & Châteaux made a name for itself by collectively removing Northeast Atlantic bluefin tuna from its menus. The result? Thanks to pressure on demand, management measures have been put in place and stocks have been rebuilding since 2010(Ifremer 2024).

Today, the urgency is elsewhere, but the method remains the same: change habits by influencing the upstream part of the chain. As Mauro Colagreco, vice-president of the association, points out:
“What we refuse to serve is as important as what we choose to put forward.”

Eels in focus

An emblematic species of French gastronomy, theEuropean eel (Anguilla anguilla) is now one of the most endangered species. The response from chefs? Eloquent: 84% of them say they don’t serve it. And of those who do, a third have done so in response to an appeal launched in 2023 by Relais & Châteaux.

Gilles Boeuf, President of Ethic Ocean, insists on the crucial role played by restaurateurs:
“By verifying origins, fishing or farming techniques, chefs influence the entire industry.”

Relais & Châteaux: redefining luxury

At a time when luxury can no longer ignore its impact, Relais & Châteaux is asserting its vision: sustainable, local and responsible luxury. The withdrawal of endangered species does not signal the end of refinement, but the invention of new culinary narratives, rooted in seasons, territories and preservation.

With this in mind, the association is encouraging a fresh look at seafood. Less scarcity, more awareness. Less prestige at all costs, more transmission of best practices.

What’s next?

Relais & Châteaux is not stopping there. The initiative will be repeated every year, with support for chefs as they develop their sourcing, and transparent communication with customers. The message is clear: gastronomy can – and must – become a lever for ecological transition.

Practical information

🌐 Official website: relaischateaux.com
🌊 Scientific partner: ethic-ocean.org
📍 Reach: 580 homes in 60 countries (North America, Europe, Asia, Oceania, Africa, South America)

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