Schiaparelli autumn-winter 2025-2026 show: Daniel Roseberry explores the elegance of the dark

For the opening of Paris haute couture week, Schiaparelli presents an introspective collection, where black dominates and the memory of the past structures the present.

Between the columns of the Petit Palais, Daniel Roseberry unveiled his new Fall-Winter 2025-2026 haute couture collection for Schiaparelli. A highlight of Paris Fashion Week, where the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli merges with a serious, sometimes dramatic, but always masterful aesthetic.

This show marked a change of direction: far from the sculptural corsets and gilded jewels emblematic of past seasons, Roseberry opted here for an elegant, almost austere rigor, dominated by a black palette. The aim is clear: to highlight volumes, materials and textures, without getting bogged down in ornamentation.

Shadows as creative matter

The collection’s starting point is historical: Elsa Schiaparelli’s exile in 1940, leaving Paris for New York in the midst of the war. From this uncertain period, Roseberry draws a strong narrative, oscillating between dark memories and repressed flamboyance. Silhouettes are structured, shoulders assertive, backs worked like surfaces to be revealed: cascading tulle, upside-down dresses, bustiers sculpted from horse saddles…

Among the most striking pieces: the Apollo cape transformed into an aggressive dress or necklace, or matador tuxedos embroidered right down to the cap. The show never takes the easy way out, and that’s precisely what makes it so powerful.

Haute couture with roots in Paris

In this monumental setting at the Petit Palais, the House of Schiaparelli continues the tradition of Parisian haute couture, which knows how to summon the past to make a contemporary statement. Catwalk greats such as Awar and Mona Tougaard give life to these spectral creations, whose strength also lies in the fact that they do not seek to please.

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