How to choose the right boots in 2026?

Booties are the essential allies of autumn and winter. Flat, with heels, in smooth leather or suede, they adapt to every style, from casual weekend looks to evening events and the office. But you need to know how to choose the right model. Here’s the editors’ complete guide.

Boots, boots, ankle boots: what’s the difference?

Before getting started, it’s useful to distinguish between these three types of shoe, which are often confused.

Boots come up to the knee or above (thigh-high boots). They provide excellent protection from the cold, and are particularly well suited to winter skirts and dresses.

Boots are inspired by the military or workwear world. Their thick soles, eyelets and rugged look make them distinctive. Wear them with casual or streetwear outfits.

Women’sankle boots are the most versatile of the three. They’re the go-to model for everyday wear with jeans, skirts, dress pants or dresses.

Type	Stem height	Main style	Versatility
Boots	Knee or above	Elegant, wintry	Average
Boots	Mid-calf	Casual, rugged	Average
Boots	Dowel	All styles	Very high

Choosing booties according to your morphology

The right women’s ankle boots can really enhance your figure. Here’s how to choose the right boots for your size and shape.

Tall (1.70 m and over) You’re free to wear everything from flats to high heels. Flat ankle boots in supple leather with a round toe are perfect for a casual, balanced look.

Small size (less than 1.65 m) Choose a 5 to 7 cm heel, ideally a block heel that elongates the silhouette while remaining comfortable. Avoid models with an excessively wide upper that may “cut” the leg.

Thin legs A structured leather model with a thin heel or coil will be particularly elegant. Ankle boots fitted at the ankle highlight the slimness of the leg.

Round calves Choose boots with flared uppers in supple materials (nappa leather, stretch suede). Avoid models that are too tight around the calf, which create a withers effect.

Morphology	Recommended model	Avoid
Large size	All models	No restrictions
Small size	5-7 cm block heel, fitted upper	Extra thick soles, wide uppers
Slim legs	Structured leather, thin heel	Oversized models
Round calves	Flared upper, soft material	Calf-high boots

What material to choose for your boots?

The material determines the durability, comfort and style of your boots. Here are the main options and their characteristics.

Smooth leather

Full-grain leather is the benchmark material for quality boots. It is resistant, waterproof (after treatment) and develops a patina over time, giving it character. Its price is higher – count at least €150 to €200 for a pair in durable genuine leather – but it’s an investment for several seasons.

Maintenance Waxing every 15 days and waterproofing at the start of the season are enough to keep smooth leather in good condition.

Suede and suede leather

Suede offers a warm, velvety finish that adds a vintage or bohemian touch to outfits. Suede leather (sanded nubuck) has a similar appearance, but is slightly more resistant. However, these materials are more fragile to moisture and stains.

Care Regular brushing with a crepe brush, application of a waterproofing agent before first use, and quick spot removal with a special suede eraser.

Synthetic alternatives

For tighter budgets or for ethical reasons, synthetic materials have come a long way. Quality imitation leather imitates the look of leather, but is less breathable and less durable. Expect 2 to 3 seasons of use, compared with 5 to 10 for well-maintained genuine leather.

Material	Durability	Water resistance	Maintenance	Average budget
Full-grain leather	5-10 seasons	Good (with treatment)	Regular waxing	150-350 €
Suede	3-5 seasons	Low	Waterproofing + brush	120-300 €
Synthetic	2-3 seasons	Variable	Damp cloth	40-120 €

If you’re looking for quality leather booties made in European tanneries,
discover this selection of women’s leather booties and boots.
The models available come in patent, mirror, suede, pull-up, laminated or grained leather,
and the brand is committed to reducing its carbon impact by working with European artisans.

What type of heels to choose?

The heel has a direct influence on comfort, style and the occasions for which you wear your boots.

The block heel (or square heel) is the most versatile. Its wide base ensures good stability and comfort, even on long days. Recommended height: 4 to 7 cm.

The stiletto heel (8 cm and over) brings a sophisticated, feminine allure. Ideal for evening wear or the office, they are not suitable for prolonged daily use.

The coil heel is thinner in the center than at the ends, giving it an elegant, original profile. It adds a trendy retro touch, especially to pointed-toe boots.

The wedge heel distributes body weight more evenly over the whole foot. It provides height (up to 10 cm) with greater comfort than thin heels.

The flat heel (0 to 3 cm) is the choice for absolute comfort. Flat Chelsea boots and desert boots are classics that are easy to wear every day.

Heel type	Height	Comfort	Best opportunities
Block / square	4-7 cm	Good	Office, daily life, outings
Needle	8-12 cm	Limited	Evenings, occasions
Coil	5-8 cm	Medium	Office, retro looks
Compensated	6-10 cm	Good	Daily life, outings
Dish	0-3 cm	Excellent	Daily, walking

Round, square or pointed tips?

The shape of the boot’s toe radically changes its look and has a visual impact on the length of the foot and leg.

Round toes are the most comfortable for everyday wear. They leave room for the toes and adapt to all foot morphologies. They go particularly well with casual, retro or bohemian looks.

Square toes add a modern, graphic touch. Back with a vengeance since the trends of the 90s/2000s, they add character to a simple outfit. A must-have if you have thin feet, as they tend to visually widen the foot.

Pointed toes elongate the leg and give an immediately sophisticated look. They’re perfect for dressy boots (office, evening) but can compress the toes on inexpensive models.

Tip shape	Visual effect	Comfort	Ideal style
Round	Neutral	Excellent	Casual, bohemian, retro
Square	Widens the foot	Good	Modern, trendy
Pointed	Extend the leg	Variable	Office, parties, chic

How do I try on my boots?

Here are a few practical tips to avoid making a mistake when trying on clothes, whether in a boutique or when checking an order online.

Always try your boots on at the end of the day, when your feet are slightly swollen. That’s when you’ll get the most realistic measurement.

Wear the socks you’ll actually use with your boots. A pair of thick socks can make a half-size difference.

Check that there’s about half a centimetre between your longest toe and the tip of the shoe. Your toes should not touch the tip.

Walk around for a few minutes and check that the heel doesn’t lift off as you move forward. Slight lift (1-2 mm) is normal on new leather, but significant lift means the boot is too big.

For online purchases, measure your foot in centimeters (heel to tip of longest toe) and compare with the brand’s size guide. Sizes vary significantly from one brand to another.

Maintenance: how to make your boots last?

Investing in a good pair of boots only makes sense if you take good care of them. Here are the essentials.

As soon as you buy, apply a waterproofing agent appropriate to the material (leather or suede). This protects against the first rains and stains.

After each use, wipe your boots with a dry cloth to remove dust and surface moisture. If they get wet, let them air-dry, away from any source of direct heat that dries out the leather.

Every 2 to 3 weeks, nourish the leather with a colorless shoe polish or cream. For suede, use a crepe brush and color restorer if necessary.

Paris Select tip Use cedar wood shoe trees to maintain the shape of your boots and absorb moisture. It’s the most underestimated yet effective way to extend the life of your shoes.

Frequently asked questions

Are Chelsea boots for every body type?

Yes, the Chelsea bootie is one of the most universal styles. Its ankle-length shaft and lack of laces give it a streamlined look that suits most figures. For rounder calves, just make sure the side elastic is not too tight.

Can you wear booties in summer?

Open-toe boots or perforated leather models can be worn in spring and early summer. In midsummer, however, they are less suitable for thermal comfort reasons.

What’s the difference between leather and vegan leather?

Vegan leather is a synthetic material designed to imitate the appearance of animal leather. It is generally less breathable and less durable, but technologies are making rapid progress. Some top-of-the-range vegan leathers based on plant fibers (cactus, apple, grape) now offer a feel very close to that of traditional leather.

How many pairs of boots do you ideally need?

Two to three pairs cover most needs: a pair of flat boots for everyday wear, a pair with medium heels for the office or outings, and possibly a pair of sturdier boots for rainy days. Alternating pairs also means you can let them dry out between uses, prolonging their lifespan.

How often should I have my boots resealed?

In general, resoiling is necessary after 1 to 2 years of regular use, depending on the quality of the original sole. You can expect to pay a cobbler between €30 and €60 for quality leather boots.