Long-lasting makeup: a makeup artist’s secrets for a flawless complexion from morning to night

After waking up at 4.45am and flying for six hours, the reflection in the mirror can be cruel. The luminous complexion of the morning has disappeared, and make-up seems to have melted off even before breakfast. Yet a few simple adjustments to your morning routine can make all the difference.

Why make-up doesn’t stay on: skin preparation

Make-up artist Lori Taylor Davis, who has worked with Smashbox Cosmetics for 25 years, explains that lack of hold often comes from poor skin preparation. Indeed, if skincare products remain on the surface, they mix with products and cause separation. As a result, foundation fades well before the end of the day.

To avoid this phenomenon, she recommends opting for water-based moisturizers during the day. Oily formulas should be reserved for the evening. What’s more, it’s best to leave a few minutes between skincare and make-up.

“If your skincare stays on the surface, it has nowhere to go and starts to blend with the makeup, causing it to separate and fade.”

The key role of the primer

Lori Taylor Davis calls the primer “make-up insurance”. A pea-sized amount is enough to prolong wear and control many skin problems. Therefore, this step should never be neglected.

She also shares a pro tip: use a blush brush to apply a thin layer of primer under the eyes or around the nose during the day. This technique revives foundation without starting all over again. The product melts back into the skin and blurs fine lines.

• Choosing a water-based moisturizer for the day
• Take a break between skincare and make-up
• Apply a dab of primer before foundation
• Use a primer with SPF 45 to protect the skin
• Superimpose several targeted primers as required (“primer lasagna” technique)

Foundation application: less is more

A common mistake is to apply foundation evenly from forehead to chin. However, most irregularities are concentrated in the center of the face. So it’s best to work this area with a fluffy brush and thin layers.

This method offers two advantages. On the one hand, the result remains natural. Secondly, make-up lasts longer because it is not overloaded. A test carried out during a 7 a.m. Pilates session proved conclusive: the complexion remained intact after the effort.

The same principle applies to blush. Lori Taylor Davis recommends starting with a cream formula, then setting with a powder. Finally, a touch more cream adds a skin-finish. The brush should be kept supple, with light strokes.

Finishes that make all the difference

For the rest of the face, the make-up artist suggests finishing with eyebrow gel, lip balm, mascara and concealer. Apply concealer only where necessary. This way, you avoid weighing make-up down unnecessarily.

A setting spray can seal the look in seconds. When working with a bride, Lori Taylor Davis uses a loose powder applied with a wide brush. Each technique responds to a specific need, depending on the occasion.

From day to night without starting over

At 5 p.m., after a full day of work, appointments and commuting, blush can still be perfect. Foundation requires only minor touch-ups. A face mist helps smooth out the dried-out texture before adjustments.

The touch-up primer trick works particularly well at this time. A few touches of concealer under the eyes and on imperfections are all that’s needed. To move into evening mode, intensify the eyes with a line along the lash line and a blush in the crease.

A lip liner and a color tint complete the transformation. The time saved is real, as there’s no need to redo each step. Morning make-up serves as a solid base for the hours that follow.

At 10:30 p.m., when you get home from dinner, your face feels fresh, with no product build-up. This sensation of lightness comes as much from the techniques applied as from a final tip from Lori Taylor Davis: accept that skin looks like skin.

• Maquillage