Chanel unveils a 10.44-carat emerald guarded by two camellias at its Taipei showcase
Chanel’s high jewellery collection “Signes & Symboles” made its debut in Taiwan at the end of July, following stops in the south of France and Hong Kong. The house transformed a private art space in the suburbs of New Taipei into a faithful replica of Villa La Pausa, Gabrielle Chanel’s historic residence on the Côte d’Azur. Guests were invited to step into the designer’s intimate world, much as Mademoiselle Chanel herself once welcomed artists such as Dalí and Picasso.
Four symbols at the heart of the collection
Gabrielle Chanel was a woman steeped in superstition and lucky symbols. From the camellia given to her by Boy Capel to the stars set into the cobblestones of Aubazine Abbey, these motifs bound the designer to her destiny. For her, such signs were never mere decoration, they were reflections of her innermost self.
The lion, her astrological sign, and the Mediterranean sun complete this iconic quartet. The 2026 collection “Signes & Symboles” weaves together a lifetime of beliefs and myths, reinterpreting the house’s cherished codes of elegance through a thoroughly contemporary lens.
“My jewellery represents an idea.”
An aesthetic inspired by Byzantium
Mademoiselle Chanel never shied away from upending classical conventions in favour of Byzantine art. The jewels in this exhibition place precious stones, fine stones and hard stones side by side. The deep blue of sapphires, the brilliance of rubies and the intense green of emeralds are paired with the vivid hues of turquoise, carnelian and yellow sapphire.
This chromatic harmony creates a true visual symphony. The sumptuous colours of Byzantine art left a profound mark on the house’s creative identity, and the result is jewellery that is at once scholarly and sensual.
85 pieces across four chapters
The collection comprises 85 exceptional pieces divided into four chapters: “Les Imprimés”, “Le Lion Emblématique”, “Les Bijoux Talismans” and “Les Symboles”. Through a rigorous geometric purity, the ateliers fuse the delicacy of the camellia, the brilliance of stars, the power of the lion and the warmth of the sun. These symbols intertwine to give the high jewellery collection a strong and cohesive visual identity.
The “Imprimé” bib necklace and bracelet, for instance, weave together suns, stars and camellias like a precious tapestry. These patterns of repetition generate a captivating visual rhythm, and each piece asserts a bold, consistent presence.
- The camellia, the symbol given to Gabrielle Chanel by Boy Capel
- The star, inspired by the cobblestones of Aubazine Abbey
- The lion, the designer’s astrological sign
- The sun, a reflection of Mediterranean light
- 85 pieces divided into four distinct chapters
The house has also transposed the Egyptian cartouche into a modern stylistic language. In the “Talisman Graphique” bracelet, cartouche-shaped links are paired with yellow sapphire. In the “Symbole Ombré” necklace, the reverse of the diamond-set gold links seals this age-old protective energy.
Haute couture translated into jewellery
True to its heritage, Chanel weaves its sartorial codes into its jewellery. The house developed a “square-neckline necklace” technique, using precise, angular lines to create a seamless structure. This design appears on the “Imprimé Lion” necklace as well as the “Symbole Saphir” and “Lion Rubis” models.
The transformability of the pieces, meanwhile, echoes Gabrielle Chanel’s lifelong pursuit of freedom. The “Symbole Étoile” necklace can be divided into a short necklace and a bracelet. Equally, the “Lion Magistral” necklace allows elements to be detached to form two independent bracelets, a nod to the designer’s fondness for wearing double bracelets.
The standout piece of the Taipei exhibition
The collection presented major technical challenges, including the precise cutting of more than 2,600 stones and the complex engineering of the necklaces. Among the 41 pieces on show in Taipei, each valued at over one million dollars, the “Imprimé Émeraude” ring stands out above all. It is set with a 10.44-carat no-oil Colombian emerald.
Two diamond camellias appear to stand guard over this rare gem. While many pieces have already been acquired by collectors, the exhibition continues to reveal breathtaking creations. In doing so, the house writes a contemporary artistic chapter of rare intensity, a true homage to the spirit of Chanel.
