Chef Norbert Tareyre tells us about his Select addresses in Paris

Norbert Tareyre is an emblematic figure on the French gastronomic scene, a chef with an outspoken temperament and generosity of spirit, who cultivates a vision of cuisine that is as instinctive as it is demanding. Behind his communicative energy and outspokenness lies a lover of fine homes, sincere addresses and soulful places. From legendary restaurants to characterful bistros, from Parisian palaces to discreet nuggets, he opens his very personal notebook to us. For Paris Select, Norbert Tareyre shares his favorite addresses in Paris, those that have moved, touched or simply delighted him. A lively, elegant and unfiltered selection, just like him.

The revelations

Paris Selct: A restaurant address where you had a real revelation the first time around?

Norbert Tareyre: When I was very young in Paris, my first big revelation was Le Jules Verne / Tour Eiffel 2ème, 75007 Paris. I was there with my parents. I have the memory (true or reconstructed) that the restaurant pivoted. You’d go up in this private elevator, arrive at a point in Paris, then the view would change. For me, it was incredible.

Later, as an adult, a huge souvenir at Bernard Pacaud’s L’Ambroisie /9Pl. des Vosges, 75004 Paris. We ended with an absolutely memorable soufflé.

I also loved La Régalade at Bruno Doucet /106Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, this bistronomy is as generous as I like. And then Substance, by Matthias Marc.

Recently, I discovered Chez Pippo, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower / 31 Av. de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris. From the outside, I thought “another Italian”. But not at all. A charismatic owner, a small, adorable team, incredible dishes. Just goes to show, you should never judge a book by its cover.

THE IMPORTANT MEETING

PS: If you have an important meeting in Paris, which address do you choose?

N-T: Hotels. Always. It’s a mark of elegance, and there are lounges.

I’ve had tea-times at the Plaza Athénée, appointments at the Royal Monceau, and today I hold my meetings at the Prince de Galles.
I also really like the George V for its elegance, the Peninsula and L’Oiseau Blanc.
Premium hotels create a special atmosphere. But sometimes, a simple bistro with a nice baguette and a French-style breakfast works just as well.

THE NEIGHBORHOOD THAT INSPIRES HIM

PS: What Paris neighborhood inspires you?

N-T: Montmartre. It’s a cliché, but I love it. It embodies the Roaring Twenties. It’s still as it was. You think of Michou, Dalida and the vineyards. The cobblestones, the narrow streets, the tiny tables where you can hear your neighbor. This is the classic Paris that I love. I’m attached to tradition, and Montmartre is the soul of Paris.

THE MYTHICAL TERRACE

PS: A terrace where you can relax when the weather’s nice?

N-T: A café or restaurant facing the Trocadero, with a view of the Eiffel Tower. Eventually, you stop looking at it, but I’m still captivated by its shape. Every morning, I tell myself how lucky I am to see this iron lady. It’s a unique monument in the world.

THE MAGICAL PLACE BY NIGHT

PS: A magical place at night?

N-T: The Seine. The illuminated bateaux-mouches, the lively quays. Towards Notre-Dame, it’s incredible. In summer, it’s even more beautiful with all the human energy.

A PARISIAN INSTITUTION

PS: An institution you admire for its longevity?

N-T: L’Ami Jean/ 27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris. Simple, traditional cuisine, yet international in its aura. I also loved La Fermette Marbeuf for its glass roof. And I love the little bistros that are holding out, especially around Châtelet. Houses that hold out, with high standards.

A FAVORITE PASTRY

PS: A pastry you love?

N-T: The financier. Born in the financial district of Paris. Made with almond, egg white and hazelnut butter. Ingot-shaped. It’s the first cake I ate at the markets with my father. Otherwise, l’Opéra. Even if I’m not much of a chocolate person, I have to admit that these classics are historic and beautiful.

AN ADDRESS TO PROMOTE

PS: An address you absolutely recommend?

N-T: I don’t do self-promotion for the 1920. But I do like to talk about discreet restaurateurs. For example Chez Pippo / 31 Av. de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris. Word of mouth, no media hype.

There are still houses like this, and they’re precious!

EMOTION BEFORE TECHNIQUE

PS: Your cuisine is direct, generous and easy to understand. Are you looking for immediate emotion or technical demonstration?

N-T: Emotion, always. Technique is eaten, not seen. That’s my vision of cooking. Making a good jus or sauce is already extremely technical. But I’m not a chef who stages his technique.

My cooking is straightforward, direct, like me. And it’s collective. I don’t cook alone. There’s knowing how to do it, knowing how to do it, and doing it. The most complicated part is the faire-faire: transmitting a state of mind to a team so that they understand how you want people to feel.

And I let everyone add their own little touch. My kitchen isn’t perfect; it has its faults. But it’s these flaws that make it beautiful.

NOT TO IMPRESS, BUT TO DELIGHT

PS: We sense your humility.

N-T: I cook with the same soul as when I’m at home. I don’t try to impress with smoke effects or anything spectacular.

Here at the Prince of Wales, I can offer a brioche sausage. A good brioche, a Lyonnais pistaché sausage, a jus de viande vinaigrette with a hint of sherry, a mustard seed pickle, a nice mustard leaf salad.

For me, doing this perfectly every day is already a feat.

DAD AND COMPANY DIRECTOR

PS: You’re the father of four children. Do you cook at home?

N-T: Of course. Sometimes simple. Broccoli parmesan, zucchini with fromage frais, an air fryer roast. I always add my touch.

I’m a company chef, a kitchen chef, a family chef. And the hardest part is being a family chef. You don’t have the instructions. You think you’re doing the right thing, and then one day you feel like you’re taking an exam.

But what counts is feeling and love.

FAILURE AND SUCCESS

PS: How do you deal with the contrast between public success and personal difficulties?

N-T: I thank life for failures. It’s humbling.

You’re allowed to fail. But we don’t have the right to give up.

I’ve failed at two restaurants and a few businesses. And I’m still here. Failure is part of success. In France, we don’t take it for granted. Yet today, restaurants close every day. It’s nothing to be ashamed of.

Fall down. Stand up again. Do it again. And be proud of others. There’s room for talent.

HEADING FOR MARRAKECH

PS: A project in Marrakech?

N-T: Yes. An incredible project. Bistronomy inspired by Paris.

The restaurant will be attached to an existing hotel, with a premium section, individual rooms with swimming pools, Moroccan architecture and spacious rooms.

We’ve already done some tests, some soft openings. They work. The idea is to bring a real bistro feel to the place, with an unpredictable touch.

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