Laetitia Casta and Viola Davis front row at Ralph Lauren’s New York show
When Laetitia Casta and Viola Davis take their seats in the front row, the message is clear: this is no ordinary runway moment. That was the mood as Ralph Lauren opened New York Fashion Week on 9 September 2026, ahead of the official schedule, with a spring 2027 collection that reaffirmed the house’s creative and commercial clout.
A spring 2027 collection rooted in the brand’s DNA
The colour palette left no doubt about Ralph Lauren‘s stylistic identity: navy and white anchored the entire collection, punctuated by touches of gold, beige and dusty rose. These timeless tones formed a coherent foundation onto which some genuinely striking contrasts were layered.
A striped shirt was elevated with a sequinned bib front, while wide-leg trousers were paired with a tailcoat. The tailored trouser, a centrepiece across several looks, was styled with a leather jacket, a boater hat and ballet flats. These combinations blended structure with ease, formality with nonchalance.
The presence of French model Laetitia Casta and American actress Viola Davis in the audience spoke to the brand’s ability to bring together personalities from very different worlds around a single aesthetic vision.
Ralph Lauren and Coach, the engines of accessible luxury on the rise
This opening show arrived against a particular economic backdrop. The luxury market is experiencing a broad slowdown, yet Ralph Lauren and Coach, two brands that cultivate a more accessible image than the major European houses, are posting sharply stronger results.
- Ralph Lauren recorded a 14% rise in sales for the quarter ending late June 2026, reaching $1.96 billion.
- Coach posted 15% growth over the same period, reaching $1.64 billion.
- Coach’s success is driven in large part by its handbags, which are hugely popular with younger shoppers.
- Ralph Lauren CEO Patrice Louvet champions what he describes as an inclusive approach to luxury.
- That approach spans an extraordinarily wide range, from $320,000 watches to $12 socks.
This strategic positioning, which refuses to choose between prestige and accessibility, appears to be paying off at a time when other players in the sector are struggling to maintain their momentum.
A packed schedule for New York Fashion Week 2026
The American house’s show was followed, on the same evening, by Coach’s runway, another heavyweight of American ready-to-wear. The following day promised to be even busier, with highlights including Henry Zankov’s debut at Diane von Furstenberg, alongside shows from Proenza Schouler, Christian Siriano, Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfiger.
Tommy Hilfiger had already made headlines in early September with an advertising campaign fronted by Travis Kelce, the American football player and husband of pop star Taylor Swift. Later in the week, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein were set to show on Friday, Carolina Herrera on Monday, and Thom Browne would close out the week on Tuesday.
In total, around 70 shows and presentations are on the programme for this edition. It stands out for one landmark decision: from this season onwards, animal fur is banned from collections on the official New York calendar. The move marks a turning point for New York Fashion Week, which now joins other major fashion capitals in taking this stance.
