“Dermaplaning is dangerous”: a dermatologist rules on these trendy routines that are causing debate

In 2026, everyday beauty routines are the talk of the town. Between social networks, content creators and professionals with divided opinions, it’s hard to know which trendy routines to really adopt. Some debates concern skin, others hair, and the experts themselves don’t always agree.

Double shampoo, daily SPF: these gestures divide the pros

Double shampooing is one of the most debated trend routines among hairdressers. Many recommend two: the first to remove impurities such as sebum, pollution or styling product residues, and the second to deep cleanse the scalp. However, other experts believe that one is enough, as too-frequent cleansing can irritate the scalp.

In practice, there are no formal recommendations. In most cases, a single, well-executed shampoo is sufficient: the right dose, a few minutes’ massage and careful rinsing. Only use two if you only wash your hair once a week, or if you use a lot of styling products such as mousse, gel or hairspray.

The question of daily SPF also divides opinion. For some professionals, French weather conditions do not justify daily sun protection. For others, on the other hand, the issue goes far beyond sunburn: it’s also about preventing skin ageing and protecting skin weakened by rosacea or acne. What’s more, UVA rays are present even in winter.

So, as soon as theUV index exceeds 3 and you plan to spend time outdoors – gardening, playing sports or on the terrace – sun protection is a must. Today’s light formulas, often moisturizing or correcting, blend in well under make-up.

“First of all, pathologies that don’t exist, such as fungal acne, where pimples are said to be caused by fungi – I don’t know anything about this pathology! Then there’s the promotion of improbable benefits. We see this with collagen masks, for example. This molecule is too big to penetrate the dermis, replace our own collagen and make it denser, as you might expect. It’s a very good moisturizer, it makes the skin look good in the morning, but that’s all. Lastly, fashionable rituals that are useless or even dangerous. Take dermaplaning, for example. Facial hair is there to protect the skin, but shaving is harmful to the cutaneous barrier”. – Dr Marina Alexandre, dermatologist, La Roche-Posay scientific consultant

Micellar water: do I really need to rinse?

Micellar water is one of the most popular beauty rituals, yet its exact use is confusing. This make-up remover is designed not to be rinsed off, but many dermatologists warn that it can leave a residue on the face. Indeed, its micelles – surfactants – capture make-up, sebum and impurities, but these residues can disrupt the skin barrier over the long term or cause irritation on sensitive skin.

On the other hand, if you have normal skin, not rinsing off the micellar water from time to time is not a major problem. On a day-to-day basis, especially with resistant make-up formulas, it’s best to double up on make-up removal with a foaming gel or, at the very least, rinse off with a thermal water spray.

Anti-ageing creams for teenagers and eyebrow serums: beware of the risks

Among the trendy routines that dermatologists are most concerned about, the use of anti-aging creams by young girls tops the list. These products stimulate collagen synthesis and cell renewal, two actions that teenage skin doesn’t need. What’s more, by applying these formulas, they run the risk of altering the cutaneous barrier and encouraging the appearance of acne pimples on an epidermis that is already often unbalanced.

What’s more, by following content creators who are often older than they are, teenagers may be using photosensitizing active ingredients without realizing it. The best reflex remains a simple 3-step routine: gentle cleansing in the morning, appropriate moisturizing during the day, and sun protection if necessary.

Serums to stimulate eyebrow growth are also at the heart of the debate. Some formulas contain prostaglandin derivatives, such as isopropyl cloprostenate. While these active ingredients are effective, they are also associated with serious side effects: irreversible darkening of iris color or fat loss, accentuating the appearance of dark circles. ANSES has issued a warning about these risks, pointing out that they are not always clearly mentioned on packaging.

Since this warning, some brands have withdrawn these active ingredients from their products. So we remain vigilant and study the composition before any purchase. You can turn to ingredients recognized for their efficacy, such as peptides.

• In most cases, a single shampoo is enough, provided it is well dosed and massaged in.
• SPF is applied as soon as the UV index exceeds 3 and you go outdoors.
• Micellar water benefits from daily rinsing, especially on sensitive skin.
• Anti-aging creams are not recommended for teenagers, who only need a simple routine.
• Eyebrow serums containing isopropyl cloprostenate present risks reported by ANSES.

Does skin really get used to creams?

It’s a popular misconception, but the answer is clear: not true. Skin renews itself every 28 days, so it doesn’t get used to a treatment. The impression of lesser efficacy comes from what is known as the plateau effect: the maximum benefit of a skin care product is generally reached after 3 months. To make it last, you simply have to keep using it.

Fake beauty news: how to keep a critical eye on fashionable gestures

False beauty information is on the increase, driven by trendy gestures and routines relayed en masse on social networks. Dr Marina Alexandre, dermatologist and La Roche-Posay scientific consultant, distinguishes three main categories: pathologies that don’t exist, unlikely benefits and useless or even dangerous rituals. Fungal acne, for example, is a pathology she says she doesn’t recognize.

Similarly, collagen masks are often overrated. The collagen molecule is too large to penetrate the dermis. It moisturizes well, but it cannot densify the skin as some contents suggest. On the other hand, it remains a good moisturizing product.

Dermaplaning also illustrates these risky beauty trends. Shaving facial hair is harmful to the skin barrier, according to the dermatologist. However, she doesn’t reject all content out of hand: she helps her patients to develop their critical faculties so that they can make better choices. Specialized accounts also exist to dispel such false information and steer patients towards appropriate, well-founded skin care products.

• trendy routines