Hermès unveils an Arceau with a Saint-Louis crystal dial and minute repeater
When a watch becomes a piece of audible haute joaillerie, something rare happens. At Watches & Wonders 2026, bringing together 65 watchmaking houses in Geneva, it was Hermès that may have delivered the most striking proposition of the edition. But it was not alone in making an impression: five watches, all drawn from iconic collections, proved that reinterpretation can be worth far more than revolution.
The Hermès Arceau, an icon reaching its peak
Born in 1978 from the pen of Henri d’Origny, the Arceau is one of the house’s most recognisable silhouettes. Its round case with asymmetric lugs, inspired by equestrian stirrups, gives it an identity that nothing else in watchmaking replicates. In 2026, this watch reaches a new level entirely.
The dial is cut from Saint-Louis crystal, openworked with a horse’s head that reveals the skeletonised minute repeater movement, manufactured exclusively for the house. Behind this sculpted dial, the chimes ring out. Available in white gold or rose gold, this haute horlogerie piece has nothing left to prove. It is the culmination of a collection that, for nearly fifty years, has cultivated an elegance entirely its own.
Cartier, Bvlgari, Chanel, Vacheron: four notable returns
The Cartier Roadster is undoubtedly the most anticipated comeback of the season. Discontinued in 2012, it had since grown in desirability on the pre-owned market. Its 2026 version retains everything that set it apart: the tonneau case with its automotive inspiration, the striated dial evoking a speedometer, lines that belong to no one else. Fourteen years away, and a razor-sharp return.
At Bvlgari, the Octo Finissimo opens up to new wrists. The collection, already a benchmark in contemporary ultra-thin watchmaking, now offers a 37mm format. This new micro-rotor calibre delivers 72 hours of power reserve. Available in sandblasted titanium, polished titanium or yellow gold, this more compact version remains just as radical as its predecessors.
- Cartier Roadster: return after 14 years, tonneau case with automotive inspiration
- Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37mm: new micro-rotor calibre, 72 hours of power reserve
- Hermès Arceau Samarcande: Saint-Louis crystal dial, minute repeater, white gold or rose gold
- Chanel J12: sizes ranging from 28mm to 42mm, the 28mm version graphic and precise
- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time: 41mm titanium, dual time zone, 150 metres water resistance
The Chanel J12, launched in 2000, pushes its own boundaries in 2026. From 42mm to 28mm, the collection reveals an unexpected breadth. The 28mm version stands out for its graphic precision and an almost jewellery-like delicacy. More than twenty-five years after its creation, the ceramic icon continues to surprise.
Travel as new territory for Vacheron Constantin
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been a sport-chic reference since the 1990s. In 2026, the house gives it a new role: that of travel companion. The Dual Time Cardinal Points version, in 41mm titanium, offers four dials inspired by the cardinal points.
It retains the spirit of the legendary Everest worn on expedition, with 150 metres of water resistance and a full dual time zone display. It is a watch conceived for those who want to explore without sacrificing elegance.
What this edition says about watchmaking in 2026
What Watches & Wonders 2026 reveals is an underlying trend: rather than reinventing everything, the great houses are choosing to refine, expand, and open their icons to new wrists. Hermès offers the most accomplished example with the Arceau Samarcande, where the house’s heritage merges with a rare watchmaking feat. Each house, in its own way, proves that the value of an icon is also measured by its ability to renew itself without betraying what it is.
