Black kohl from the 90s: this cult make-up makes a comeback for intense eyes

In 2026, a make-up icon of the ’90s is making a comeback. This vintage look promises intense, sensual eyes, while remaining simple to achieve.

The 90s/2000s are back. Low-rise pants, jeweled teeth, voluminous Farrah Fawcett brushings: nostalgia is everywhere. Recently, a make-up look emblematic of this period has come back into the spotlight.

Black kohl: a timeless classic makes a comeback

This type of make-up has its origins in ancient Egypt. Its ability to reinvent itself through the decades is a testament to its timelessness. Today, it is the symbol of a look that is both raw and modern.

In the nineties, stars such as Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer were ambassadors for black kohl under the eyes. At the time, this pencil line was part of the punk rock/grunge aesthetic that dominated the scene.

“The key is to use a gel kohl with a soft texture, which makes it easy to blend flush with the upper and lower lashes,” explains Lan Nguyen-Grealis, professional makeup artist to British media outlet Grazia.

Marc Jacobs revives the catwalk trend

Designer Marc Jacobs made this his aesthetic at his latest fall/winter show in New York. Models appeared in pencil skirts and sequined tops straight out of the 90s. Their kohl-rimmed eyes leave no doubt: this makeup style has just made a comeback.

Today, celebrities such as model Bella Hadid and singer Billie Eilish have adopted it without hesitation. Their influence is helping to popularize this look with a younger audience.

• Intense, sensual eyes
• Extremely easy to make
• Authentic, “living” aesthetics
• A style for both day and evening
• An instant “cool girl” touch

TikTok takes on this beauty trend

Proof of the extent of the phenomenon, on the TikTok social network, Internet users have seized on this beauty trend. Videos of young women running a black pencil down their mucous membranes are multiplying.

Farewell to the smooth perfection of the Clean Girl aesthetic. The aim now is to achieve an authentic, “living” makeup look, as if after a night out clubbing. This approach breaks with the more discreet makeup that has dominated until now.

This look contrasts with the Clean Girl aesthetic, which favors a flawless complexion and eyes simply adorned with mascara. Instead, kohl adds depth and a rock dimension to the look.

Advice from a professional makeup artist

According to Lan Nguyen-Grealis, this technique gives definition and dimension to the eyes. It adds a “cool girl” touch to both daytime and evening looks.

The expert recommends choosing a waterproof, long-wear kohl. Not only will it blend better and last longer, but it will require fewer touch-ups throughout the day.

How to do eye makeup in 2026

Product texture plays a key role in the final result. A gel kohl with a supple texture is easy to blend along the upper and lower lash line.

The goal is not perfection. The more imperfect, the better! This make-up should look natural and slightly blurred, as if it had lived.

This beauty trend offers an intense, highly sensual look. With just a few strokes of the pencil, everyone can effortlessly adopt a rock look.

The return of black kohl confirms the enduring appeal of the aesthetic codes of the 90s. This raw, assertive style appeals to a new generation in search of authenticity.

• Maquillage