This Chanel Haute Joaillerie collection transforms iconic symbols into rare gemstones

Chanel is hitting the high jewelry mark with its Signes & Symboles collection, an ensemble of pieces that brings the house’s icons into dialogue with exceptional stones. From sovereign lions to delicate camellias and contrasting talismans, this line reveals the full richness of Chanel’s symbolic vocabulary. Here’s what this collection has to offer, piece by piece.

Chanel Signes & Symboles: rare stones at the heart of every creation

The collection opens with theImprimé Émeraude, a ring that encapsulates the essence of haute joaillerie. It is set with an octagonal-cut Colombian emerald weighing 10.44 carats, described as “no-oil”, meaning that it has undergone no oil treatment to enhance its appearance – an absolute rarity in the gem world.

Another highlight of the collection is the Imprimé Lion necklace in white and rose gold, set with diamonds and sapphires. It features an octagonal, unheated Sri Lankan stone weighing 20.66 carats. The term “unheated” designates a gem whose color is entirely natural, with no thermal intervention to intensify it – a quality criterion much sought-after by collectors.

The Lion Emblématique brooch takes the generosity of materials a step further. It combines white, yellow and pink gold, then mixes diamonds, yellow diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and turquoise. At its center, a 2.68-carat unheated Mozambique ruby brings a deep red intensity to the whole.

An untreated Colombian emerald of 10.44 carats: a gemological rarity at the heart of haute joaillerie.

Chanel and its fetish symbols: the lion, the camellia, the star

The lion, Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign, recurs as a common thread. Thus, the collection offers the Lion Millénaire in a matching ring and bracelet, the Lion Rubis in a necklace (rose gold, diamonds and rubies) and the Lion Topaze, a yellow gold necklace combining diamonds, yellow sapphires, beryls, imperial topaz and orange spinels – a sunny palette that contrasts with the more classic lines.

The camellia, the brand’s emblematic flower, is featured in the Symbole Camélia Rose ring. The Symbole Étoile necklace, meanwhile, embodies the talismanic dimension of the collection, elevating this protective sign to the status of fine jewelry.

Breastplate necklaces, contrasting bracelets: a variety of formats

The collection is not limited to rings and brooches. The Imprimé Plastron necklace in yellow gold combines white diamonds and yellow sapphires in an ample composition, designed to dress the décolleté with power. This plastron format, by definition large and structured, is one of the most demanding in fine jewelry.

In contrast, the Talisman Contrasté bracelet plays on contrasting materials and tones. It embodies the taste for a balance of forces that the collection develops throughout. The Talisman de Symboles necklace, for its part, brings together several of the brand’s hallmarks in a narrative composition, like an inventory of the motifs dear to the House.

The Imprimé Bandeau ring completes this panorama, combining yellow gold, diamonds, turquoise, chrysoprase and red lacquer – a combination of materials that asserts the freedom of tone of the ensemble.

• Emerald Print Ring: 10.44-carat untreated Colombian emerald, octagonal cut
• Lion print necklace: 20.66-carat unheated Sri Lankan sapphire, white gold and rose gold
• Emblematic Lion Brooch: 2.68-carat unheated Mozambique ruby, six types of stones
• Lion Topaz necklace: yellow gold, imperial topaz, beryls, yellow sapphires and orange spinels
• Bandeau print ring: yellow gold, turquoise, chrysoprase and red lacquer combined

What the Signes & Symboles collection reveals about Chanel fine jewelry

What Signes & Symboles highlights is the House’s ability to build a coherent visual language across very different pieces. Lion, camellia, star, talisman – each motif is part of a precise vocabulary, supported by stones whose gemological quality is systematically documented: geographical origin, absence of treatment, carat weight.

In concrete terms, for a lover of fine jewelry, this collection offers several points of entry. Lion motif pieces cover all formats: ring, bracelet, necklace, brooch. Lovers of colorful stones will find the intensity of Mozambique ruby, the warmth of imperial topaz and the freshness of chrysoprase.

What’s more, the diversity of alloys – white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, sometimes combined within the same piece as in the Lion Emblématique brooch – allows each creation to fit into different stylistic universes, from the most classic to the most daring. The company takes on unconventional combinations of materials, such as red lacquer or turquoise alongside diamonds.

• Chanel