Nestled among vines and olive trees, this Provence village captivated Max Ernst for 12 years
Picture a village perched high in the Var, where cobbled lanes wind between houses stacked up a hillside, and where one of the world’s most celebrated painters chose to spend the last twelve years of his life. That village is Seillans, and it holds the coveted Plus Beaux Villages de France label.
Max Ernst and Seillans: an artistic love affair
It was the art world that first put Seillans on the map. German-born painter Max Ernst, a towering figure of the Surrealist movement, made this Provençal village his home alongside his wife, Dorothea Tanning. Together, they lived here for twelve years, leaving a lasting mark on the commune.
Today, art lovers can visit the Ernst-Tanning collection, which brings together more than a hundred lithographs and engravings created by the couple. A statue of the Génie de la Bastille, made by Max Ernst himself, still greets visitors at the entrance to the village. This artistic heritage makes Seillans far more than a pretty Provence village: it is a place steeped in cultural history.
A remarkably well-preserved medieval heritage
Beyond its Surrealist legacy, this Provence village has retained much of its medieval past. The feudal castle, vaulted passageways and the Porte Fortifiée de Sarrasine bear witness to a long and vivid history. This fortified gate is one of the most striking medieval remnants in the commune.
The Chapelle Notre-Dame de l’Ormeau, built in the 12th century, deserves special attention. It houses a magnificent baroque altarpiece dating from the 16th century, a true masterpiece preserved at the heart of the village. A short stroll through the lanes is all it takes to travel through several centuries of history.
What to do and see in Seillans
To make the most of this Provence village, here are the must-sees you shouldn’t miss:
- Visit the Ernst-Tanning collection and its hundred-plus lithographs and engravings
- Explore the Chapelle Notre-Dame de l’Ormeau and its 16th-century baroque altarpiece
- Attend the ceramics festival on 15 August, where around thirty artists exhibit their work
- Climb the two summits of La Pigne for sweeping views over the Fayence plain and the Estérel and Maures massifs
- Discover the bories, small round dry-stone dwellings that trace the footsteps of shepherds of old
The local market is also a wonderful opportunity to sample regional specialities. You’ll find goat’s cheeses, charcuterie, confectionery and AOC Côtes de Provence wines, a perfect gastronomic stop after a morning of sightseeing.
Ceramics and nature: two pillars of local life
Seillans has built a reputation in the art of ceramics. Every year on 15 August, around thirty artists gather for a festival dedicated to the craft. The artisan stalls give visitors a chance to discover this local know-how, which lends this Provence village a distinctly creative identity.
For outdoor enthusiasts, the surrounding countryside holds plenty of surprises. Hikers can head to Lac de Méaulx, a favourite among anglers, or set off to discover the bories scattered across the landscape. Seillans sits at the heart of an exceptional natural territory, framed by vines and olive trees, with panoramas stretching all the way to the Estérel and Maures massifs from the heights of La Pigne.
This Provence village, nestled in the Pays de Fayence, brings together in one place a rare artistic legacy, an intact medieval heritage, deeply rooted gastronomy and generous landscapes. Among the nine hilltop villages of the Pays de Fayence, Seillans stands out for the sheer density of experiences on offer, all of them within easy walking distance of the village centre.