They’ve opened Le Gratin facing the Palais-Royal, on the square made famous by Emily in Paris
Imagine having lunch on a terrace, facing the Palais-Royal, with not a single car in sight, in a setting that looks like a film backdrop. That’s exactly what Le Gratin offers, the new restaurant that has just opened on place de Valois, created by Michel Puech and Adrien Villalba, the duo already behind Biche, Margaux and Bistro Blandine.
A bistro address that leans into picture-postcard Paris
Place de Valois is that corner of the 1st arrondissement made famous by the series Emily in Paris, whose heroine’s fictional office looks out onto this very little square. Le Gratin has set up here with a vast, sun-drenched, linen-draped terrace, with the Palais-Royal as its backdrop. It would be hard to find a more Parisian setting for a restaurant that so openly embraces that heritage.
Inside, the atmosphere shifts register without losing any of its charm. Red gingham banquettes and armchairs line the veranda, while strings of fairy lights lend a guinguette spirit that keeps things feeling light. Wood dominates the décor, and you can already picture the lively winter tables, sheltered from the cold, in a room that invites you to linger.
The menu: bistro generosity with a few clever winks
Le Gratin’s menu plays on nostalgia for the classic French bistro, but with enough attention to detail to avoid becoming a caricature. Among the starters, bone marrow (€14) stands out as a sharing dish, alongside sea bream carpaccio at €16 and small toasted brioches topped with beef tartare at €14. These opening moves set the tone immediately: generous, convivial, unfussy.
For mains, meat takes centre stage. The hand-cut tartare at €21 and the entrecôte béarnaise at €29 are two safe bets for carnivores, while a cordon bleu at €26 also features on the menu. But the real surprise is the lobster gratin served in its own little copper dish at €28, an original proposition that justifies the restaurant’s name all on its own. A Caesar salad at €22 and tagliatelle with morel mushrooms at the same price round out a menu that knows how to please without relying on meat.
And staying true to the theme, a gratin dauphinois is available as a side dish at €6. An obvious nod, but a perfectly coherent one.
- Bone marrow to share: €14
- Hand-cut tartare: €21
- Lobster gratin in a copper dish: €28
- Tagliatelle with morel mushrooms: €22
- Gratin dauphinois as a side: €6
Desserts that deliver, for a sweet finish near the Palais-Royal
The end of the meal doesn’t disappoint. A gratin of candied apples with salted caramel butter at €10 carries the house’s through-line through to the final course with satisfying consistency. A coupe of strawberries and red fruits with house-made chantilly at €14 bets on generosity, while a chocolate mousse served from the spoon at €10 plays the classic-done-well card.
These desserts confirm the restaurant’s direction: familiar recipes, carried by good produce, with no desire to show off. That’s precisely what makes the address well-suited to group lunches or birthday dinners, as the layout of the space itself suggests.
Practical info: opening hours and when to go
Le Gratin is open Monday to Sunday, continuously from noon to midnight. This generous span of hours is a real asset for visits to the Palais-Royal, whether you’re stopping in after a morning at a museum or stretching an evening out. The no-break service also means you can sidestep the usual lunchtime rush.
Facing the gardens of the Palais-Royal, in a neighbourhood that draws Parisians and visitors alike, Le Gratin arrives with a clear proposition: unapologetic bistro cooking, a dream terrace, and a menu that gives you reason to come back with the seasons.
